Using Photoshop.

Creating a tryptich is not so much 'difficult' as 'time consuming' - but it works well and is a lovely way to 'frame' a favourite Photo. Not all photographs will lend themselves to being split into three, but there is no reason why separate photos cannot be used with a uniting theme - birds, flowers, - whatever you choose much of the work is the same. If you choose three separate photos the first section will be unnecessary, but you will have to make sure all the photos are exactly the same size before you start.

Section 1

 

This was the photo I chose to use. The first thing was to remove the post in the foreground. Using 'Healing Brush' on 'Replace' that was removed.

A Pen and paper is handy to note down numbers and do some basic maths.

The next thing we need to decide is where the photo is to be 'cut'. There are two obvious division between the 3 adult birds. To do this go to 'View' and make sure the 'Ruler' is activated. Now if you place the cursor where you want to 'cut' the photo you can see a light marking in the ruler where your cursor is. Note down the exact measurement - for me the first break between the first two birds - between the two cygnets  - was 10.8 cms. Go to 'View' and click on 'New Guide'. Tick on the 'Vertical' guide and put your figures in the box then click on OK.

 

You can see that a pale blue line has appeared through the page at 10.8 cms. I now need a 'cut' line between the other two adults. Following exactly the same method I make a second 'Guide'.

You now need to measure the width of the middle section as the two outside sections must be the same width as the middle section. When you have found that then you need to calculate how much of the left edge you need to cut off, and the same for the right hand edge.

The final 'cut' marks should be evenly spaced. You can now decide where the crop for the final image should be. I have decided to crop the stone and grass at the bottom of the image. So cropping from the 1st and the 4th cut marks. taking the height to the top and removing the bottom I am left with the final image for creating the Tryptich. 

The next stage is to separate your three sections. Following the cut lines exactly (the dotted crop line should lay over the blue cut line), select the first frame, copy and Paste as a new Image. Repeat for the other two frames making three separate photos.

From this point on is where you would start if you are using separate photos. The method would then be the same BUT you make make sure your three photos are the same pixel size.

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Section 2

This is my first 'photo' which has to be framed first of all.

Enlarge the Canvas size. By how much is very much a personal choice - size and colour can all add or detract. I have chosen an extra 50 pixels all round and a black frame.

Add a blank layer at the top, then with the 'Background Copy' highlighted, 'Select' by 'Colour Range' the black outline, select the blank layer and there should be a highlighted blank frame round the edge. Fill this with the colour of your choice (Black in my case). With the other two background layers closed, (shut the eye), 'Select' the frame layer, click on fx at the bottom of the layers palette and then choose Bevel and Emboss. Again note down the settings that you use as you will need to replicate them on the other two frames. When the frame is to your liking open the other two layers and merge all. Save as a seperate image.

Do the other two frames in exactly the same way.

When you have completed the three frames and saved, you now need to decide on a backdrop. You can use a room, or a landscape or, as I have done a gradient. with a 'realistic' background you are more confined as to the finishing touches as reflections and shadows will need to be considered.

 

To make the background you need to treble the height of your individual frames and quadruple the width. My 'New' page was 3500 pixels width and 3500 depth.

With my gradient I then used a Gaussian blur to merge the lines and hopefully give it a less strident feeling.

Now you need to copy and paste your individual frames and make an initial positioning.

As you will see each of the frames is on a different layer. Duplicate Layer 1 and then using 'Free Transform', flip it Vertically. When this has been done using the move tool place the second 'upside down frame' directly beneath the 'Main 1st frame'. You can reposition whilst the Free Transform is in place but personally I find the Move tool a little easier to manoeuvre.

When this 'reflection' layer is in place, make sure it is still selected and drop the opacity to around 70%. Now close all the other layers and 'Merge Visible' making the frame and it's reflection a single layer.

 

You may notice that the reflection has gone off the bottom of the page. Don't worry about this it will all be OK at the end.

Follow this same procedure with the other two frames - again noting the opacity you have used so that the screen will look like a solid object at the end.

 

The next stage is to put some perspective into the original frames, so with the 'Free tranform tool' and 'distort' move the individual frames to take them to an angle. It is also a good idea to slightly decrease the width of any frames which are at an angle to give them a more accurate appearance.

It is a good idea to close the layers which you are not working on and also to keep the background layer closed until the end.

When you have redjusted the individual frames for perspective you then need to bring the three frames together. Again lining them up I find is easier with the 'Move' tool.

The three frames are now together although still in separate layers. When you are satisfield with their alighnment 'Merge Visible' so that you can now treat the screen as a unit. Using 'Free Transform' resize and reposition the screen.

When you are happy with this then take a large soft Eraser and sweep it across the bottom of the layer.

This will give the effect of a fading reflection

open the background layer and make any final adjustments and then you can Flatten your Image

 

As this site is given to us by the good auspices of a Japanese based company I thought it might be a nice gesture if all those that use this tutorial donate £1.00 to the Save The Children Fund who are working for the children of Japan who have been caused distress by all the recent trauma.

Their website is

http://www.savethechildren.org.uk/en/japan-earthquake-and-tsunami-appeal...

and it is easy to give on their site. No obligation but just a Thank You to the Fuji Guys who provide us with so much help and support.

 

Any queries I will be happy to try and answer